As winter descends and the festive season unfolds, Jesse Burgess, co-founder of the food and travel platform Topjaw, reflects on his personal experiences dining out. In a recent interview, he shared what he loves and hates about the restaurant scene during this chilly time of year.
Winter Delights in Dining
One of Burgess’s greatest passions is the humble pie. He asserts, “A pie is one of the greatest dishes ever created.” On a cold winter day, nothing hits the spot quite like a chicken, rabbit, and tarragon pie, paired with a creamy 50:50 butter and potato mash and rich gravy. This dish, he claims, embodies the heartiness of winter comfort food, which he admits he wouldn’t crave in the warmer months.
During the winter season, Burgess also revels in the opportunity to enjoy game dishes. He highlights Harwood Arms in west London as a standout venue for game dinners, along with Trullo in Islington. He encourages food enthusiasts to visit Camille at Borough Market, a restaurant known for its innovative and accessible takes on game and offal, making these often-overlooked ingredients more appealing to diners.
The atmosphere of winter dining is further enhanced by the glow of candlelight, which Burgess cherishes. Recently returning from filming in Paris, he noted, “For atmosphere and pleasantries, nothing matches it.” While it may complicate filming, the ambiance created by candlelight is a vital part of the dining experience that he loves.
Red wine also plays a significant role in Burgess’s winter dining habits. He enjoys indulging in full-bodied reds during this season, appreciating the communal aspect of sharing such wines with friends. This tradition seems to resonate with many, contributing to a broader cultural shift towards heavier wines as temperatures drop.
Burgess also has fond memories of his mother making blinis topped with salmon and caviar, which he describes as a classic canape that never fails to impress. He appreciates the simplicity of traditional dishes, urging others not to overcomplicate them.
Another highlight of winter dining, according to Burgess, is the festive “silly season.” This period encourages people to let loose and engage in social gatherings, regardless of the day of the week. He notes how the darker evenings prompt earlier dinners, allowing for longer, more meaningful conversations with friends.
Pubs, he believes, are an essential part of winter life in the UK. “No building will hug you like a pub,” he remarks, indicating his affection for these establishments. He argues that while pubs are enjoyable year-round, they hold a special charm during the colder months.
Challenges of Winter Dining
Despite the joys of winter dining, Burgess expresses some frustrations. One notable inconvenience is the lack of adequate cloakroom facilities in many restaurants. This often results in diners either having to wear their coats at the table or risking theft by leaving them in a pile with others.
He also finds steamy restaurant windows unsettling. While acknowledging that they are a natural occurrence, they remind him of less pleasant associations, such as scenes from popular films.
January poses another challenge for the hospitality industry, which he believes needs more vibrant social activity. He criticizes the trend of “Dry January,” arguing that it stifles the pub scene and detracts from the winter dining experience. To counter this, Burgess and his friends have established a “Saturday Swim Club” in January, which involves a series of pub crawls to keep the festive spirit alive.
Jesse Burgess’s insights into winter dining highlight both the pleasures and pitfalls of eating out during the colder months. As the festive season continues, his reflections serve as a reminder of the warmth and community that restaurants can foster, even in the chill of winter.
