Shinya Kozuka debuted his latest collection at the Tokyo Science Museum on a warm evening in July 2023, presenting a dreamy exploration of his longstanding fascination with the moon. Inspired by personal memories during a recent visit to his family in Osaka, Kozuka’s collection evokes a romantic yet solitary atmosphere, reflecting themes that have defined his work.
During his New Year’s holiday in Osaka, Kozuka was reminded of his late grandfather’s photographs and a sewing project from his childhood. These memories triggered a profound sense of nostalgia, akin to gazing at the moon. “When I saw them, I had a feeling similar to what I get when I look at the moon. I thought, ‘oh, the moon is floating in my room’,” he shared. This sentiment set the tone for the collection, which draws heavily on personal emotion and surreal imagery.
Whimsical Designs and Nostalgic Elements
The collection opened with models wearing elegantly tailored black shirts and trousers, illuminated by gradients of moonlight. This initial presentation seamlessly transitioned into more whimsical pieces, including toweled dressing gowns adorned with beaded embellishments and crimson carnations, reminiscent of Kozuka’s childhood crafts.
As the show progressed, the audience was transported to a rustic, pastoral setting with aprons and coats embroidered with landscapes that might belong to the Amalfi Coast, or perhaps a fictional town filled with swans and whimsical moons. The ensemble featured floral pajamas and vintage-style chore coats, evoking a sense of comfort and familiarity.
Strawberry-colored gingham fabrics were used to create garments with a lived-in feel, while some models sported half-pulled-off socks, as if they had just risen from slumber. The curly moon designs held by models were inspired by Kozuka’s own illustrations, further establishing the celestial theme prevalent throughout the collection.
Kozuka’s work consistently reflects his affection for the moon, winter, and urban exploration. “These are themes I think I’ll use forever. If I’m asked to choose between the sun and the moon, I’ll choose the moon, and if I’m asked to choose summer or winter, I’ll choose winter,” he stated, emphasizing his inclination towards darker aesthetics.
Fashion as Emotional Expression
The designer’s strength lies in his ability to transform deeply personal and often surreal ideas into clothing that resonates with contemporary fashion sensibilities. His oversized silhouettes maintain a relaxed vibe, ensuring the collection remains stylish without slipping into costume-like territory. Kozuka’s baggy sweatpants, for instance, have become popular among fashion-forward young people in Tokyo.
Looking ahead, Kozuka aims to expand his reach beyond Japan. The brand has been steadily increasing its stockists, and he envisions presenting his first runway show in Europe in the near future. As his designs continue to captivate audiences, the journey from the moon to the stars seems inevitable for this innovative designer.
