Berlu Bakery has officially reopened its doors in Portland, this time located on Southeast Belmont. The bakery, under the direction of Vince Nguyen, a James Beard Award-winning chef, debuted on June 29, 2023. Known for his creative tasting menus at the now-closed Berlu restaurant, Nguyen has shifted his focus to crafting gluten-free Vietnamese pastries, marking an exciting new chapter for the establishment.
At Berlu, the vibrant green Vietnamese sponge cake takes center stage. This reopening comes at a transformative time for Nguyen, who welcomed his first child in 2024. The experience of becoming a parent has influenced his culinary journey, allowing him to explore new horizons in baking. “It was a great way to learn about myself,” said Nguyen. “I didn’t realize how much I rely on food to learn about myself, learn about others and also express myself. So I’ve come to really appreciate that.”
Innovative Offerings and Unique Textures
Berlu’s evolution from a restaurant to a pop-up bakery and finally to a dedicated space reflects Nguyen’s commitment to Vietnamese cuisine. The bakery specializes in gluten and dairy-free pastries, savory dishes, and specialty beverages. Current menu highlights include pandan or lemongrass bánh bò nướng (sponge cake), pineapple/cardamom cake, pandan waffle, and a selection of tarts.
A standout item, the “One of Everything” platter, priced at $53.30, invites patrons to sample each pastry. Nguyen emphasizes the uniqueness of the pastries, stating, “I really tried to push the ‘One of Everything’ pastry, because everything is so unique that textures and flavors aren’t that redundant.” He notes that the gluten and dairy-free nature of the treats contributes to their lightness.
Nguyen particularly credits the pandan bánh bò nướng for the bakery’s success: “That’s what started it all. It’s so strange, but it’s so delicious. It’s more dense, but it’s chewy.” The cake has become a symbol of the bakery, featured prominently in wall art and merchandise.
A Culinary Responsibility
Berlu Bakery not only offers pastries but also two rotating savory dishes. Recent options included a coconut bánh bò nướng avocado toast and bánh cuốn, a Vietnamese dish made with steamed rice noodle sheets filled with meat or seafood, served with chili oil. Additionally, the menu features creative beverages like the kẹo mè xửng huế latte, inspired by Vietnamese peanut and sesame candy.
Nguyen aims to introduce new Vietnamese-inspired items seasonally, a passion that blossomed during the pandemic. “It starts with where you’re from, your heritage,” he explained. “I didn’t really grow up cooking or eating much Vietnamese food. It was all very new to me.” His goal is to present traditional flavors in a way that resonates with Western palates.
Nguyen acknowledges the significance of his role in introducing Vietnamese pastries to a broader audience: “A lot of people that come in, this is the first time they’ve had either Vietnamese pastries or Vietnamese food. That’s something that I find I carry as a great responsibility.”
Sample menu prices include pandan bánh bò nướng at $6, nectarine tart at $7.75, pandan/tamarind bánh da lợn at $4.80, and bánh bò nướng avocado toast at $16.10. The beverage menu features options like the kẹo mè xửng huế latte at $7.80 and jasmine tea cream soda at $7.
Berlu Bakery operates with counter service, providing ample seating and takeaway options. The bakery is open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursday through Sunday and is located at 661 S.E. Belmont St., Portland. More information can be found at berlubakery.com.
