UPDATE: Renowned chef Daniel Humm has just announced a major shift at Eleven Madison Park, the acclaimed New York City restaurant that previously embraced an all-vegan menu. Starting October 14, 2023, the celebrated eatery will reintroduce meat options in its tasting menu, which will now cost $365.
Humm made headlines in 2021 when he opted for a completely plant-based approach, aiming to redefine luxury dining. However, he revealed in an interview with The New York Times that this decision inadvertently alienated some potential diners. “I didn’t realize that we would exclude people,” Humm stated, expressing concern about being labeled a hypocrite for his change of heart.
The reimagined tasting menu will still highlight plant-based dishes, offering seven to nine courses, but guests will now be able to substitute select items for meat or seafood. For diners who prefer a fully vegan experience, that option remains available. Humm hopes this significant menu update will not only boost business but also serve as an “act of hospitality” by welcoming a broader audience.
Humm’s initial decision to eliminate meat stemmed from his partnership with the nonprofit Rethink Food, which he co-founded to address food inequities exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic. He noted that during the restaurant’s closure, they provided over a million meals to medical workers and underserved New Yorkers.
Despite being the first fully vegan restaurant to retain its three Michelin stars, Eleven Madison Park faced criticism for some dishes that reviewers felt were merely substitutes for traditional meat and fish. Critics, including former The New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells, pointed out that some offerings felt disingenuous.
The shift comes after Humm’s recent trip to Greece, where he witnessed a goat slaughter that profoundly impacted him. “It was very moving,” he remarked, emphasizing the importance of respecting food and minimizing waste. This experience ultimately led to his decision to bring meat back to the menu.
In recent months, Eleven Madison Park has struggled with private event bookings and declining wine sales. Humm noted, “It’s hard to get 30 people for a corporate dinner to come to a plant-based restaurant.” His latest menu update aims to attract a wider range of diners, enhancing the restaurant’s appeal.
As this news develops, food enthusiasts and industry insiders are eager to see how this reinvigorated approach will affect Eleven Madison Park’s reputation and financial success. The restaurant is poised to navigate a new chapter in its storied history while continuing to champion plant-based cooking.
Stay tuned for more updates as this story unfolds.
